Thailand Land of Smiles» Thailand Pictures

Rice Paddy Fishing, the Sport of Peasants

Talen — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 23:24:40 +0000

Behind the family farm in Nakhon Phanom there is probably close to 50 individual rice paddies that are owned by all the various families in the village. I learned the hard way exactly how the rice fields work in the village because I spent a few days fertilizing them last April for the coming planting season. The family owned 7 fields behind their farm and a further 5 fields 3 miles down the road.

After a hard days work I was asked if I wanted to go fishing, to which I replied, “sure”. I expected that once the fishing nets were checked and folded up that we would be loading up the truck and heading down the road to the Mekong, but I was wrong. We loaded up the truck and got all the kids on a motorcycle and started heading in the general direction of the Mekong but then we took a turn onto the dirt road that runs along side the rice fields.

The fields behind the farm are separated by a small wooded area with a stream and on the other side was another 40 fields or so. We came out of the wooded area and drove to the opposite side of the fields and parked. That’s when I noticed that interspersed around the fields were actually man made ponds that were pretty good sized and as I found out about 10 feet deep.

I asked Pookie if they had stocked the ponds and I was told they occasionally buy feeder fish and set them loose but the birds also help out by dropping remnants of fish and other critters into the water. As the nets came out and were prepared to start the fishing the kids found a spot in the shade to play while Pookie hid out behind a very small tree for cover while watching the men fish.

The ponds are collectively used by all of the farmers so I didn’t expect many fish to be pulled out but after a long day of shoveling manure I was more than ready to jump in and cool off. Eventually Pookie’s brothers and her young cousin unfurled the nets and set to trawling the first pond but as expected they didn’t get anything after 3 tries. We then headed for the second pond only to find that the fish weren’t home there either.

Right near the fields is what looks like a large natural lake and I was told we would walk over there and give that a try. I thought it sounded like a good idea until I walked into the lake only to find that the water only came up to my shins. At best it was 3 feet deep in places. more of a large flooded area than a lake. At this point I wondered what we would be fishing for.

It didn’t take me long to realize we would be mucking around in the mud for fresh water clams and mussels. They didn’t think I was up for it and laughed as I laid in the water, pulling myself around with my hands while feeling for anything in the muck below. Surprisingly, for me and them, I pulled up about 12 mussels and the brothers found about 20 each. More than enough to compliment dinner that night. And while we were mucking around in the mud Pookie decided to try her hand at photography, as you can see she caught my better side.

So, as the sun began to set, we loaded up the pickup truck and headed back to the house with our haul of mussels and just like their western counterparts there was a tall tale or two of the fish that got away. Dinner that night tasted better than any four star restaurant, partly because the work we put in to bring it to the table but mostly because I felt like I was a part of something bigger than a meal.

Random Photos From Nakhon Phanom

Talen — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 01:22:48 +0000

Salt Farming in Thailand

Talen — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 17:16:37 +0000

When you think about farming and Thailand the logical conclusion usually ends up with visions of rice, but when you drive through the provinces of Samut Sakhon & Samut Songkhran your logic just might be challenged. When I was heading to Damnoen Saduak floating market in April I settled in for what I knew was going to be a long ride full of bland scenery, about 50 kilometers South West of Bangkok along Rama II Road something made me sit up and take notice.

On both sides of the road for as far as the eye could see were flooded fields. I knew it was too early for rice planting and some of the fields looked almost white under the water while others had men who seemed to be raking white mounds into perfect lines throughout the field. I tries to coax the answer out of my driver but he couldn’t explain in English so I was left with my own ideas until I got back to the hotel later that day.

When I showed my find to Pookie and asked what was going on without blinking she picked up a salt shaker from the table and poured some salt into my hand. Something so simple yet my mind couldn’t figure it out.

After looking at the pictures for a while and doing a little research I realized I had hit the mother load of Thai ingenuity. Not only are the Thai’s using one natural resource to manufacture another, they are doing it in an absolute green way.

These fields are actually large shallow flat pools that have the earth tamped down tight to hold the water that is pumped into them from the Gulf of Siam or the Mae Khlong River, both of which have a high salt content. The water is pumped into the pools by means of a wooden paddled conveyor belt driven by small windmills scattered throughout the fields. Once the water is pumped into the shallow pools then it’s a two month wait while the sun does it’s work removing the salt from the water.

At the end of two months the pools are drained of the majority of their water and the residual salt that came to rest on the bottom of the pools is then raked up into piles to be collected. The collected salt is then stored in small warehouses located at the edges of the fields where it is then packaged for sale.

Every couple of miles along the road are small stands selling the sea salt in bags as small as one kilo all the way up to 50 kilo sacks. The salt farms operate for six months of the year starting at the end of rainy season in November and continuing until the end of April just before the rains return.

Most crops need water but this is one crop that relies on the sun and I can only guess that early rains would be bad for business.

Wat Phra Kaew Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Talen — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 22:55:51 +0000

Wat Phra Kaew, also known as the temple of the Emerald Buddha, resides within the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok and is considered the most revered Buddhist shine in all of Thailand. The Emerald Buddha itself is actually carved of jadeite, stands 26 inches tall and sits atop a large gold alter in the center of the temple.

Only the King of Thailand is allowed close to the Emerald Buddha when the seasonal gold costume it wears is changed three times a year. The summer costume consists of a crown and jewelry, the winter costume is a golden shawl and the costume worn during Buddhist Lent is a gilt robe and headdress. The costume change is an important Thai ritual performed by the King who will also sprinkles water over the gathered monks and the faithful to bring good luck during the upcoming season. The other two costumes are on display in the nearby Pavillion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins while not in use.

According to popular belief the Emerald Buddha started it’s journey in Sri Lanka but modern historians have discounted most of the Buddha statues early history and are confident that the Buddha image was carved sometime during the late 14th century to the mid 15th century in Northern Thailand. Although, the statue is carved in the style and attitude of Buddha images found in Southern India or Sri Lanka with the Buddha in a meditation pose. The meditation pose has never been prominent in Thailand which may have lead early historians to assign an alternate history to the Emerald Buddha.

The history from this era says that the Buddha was once hidden in a Chedi in the Chiang Rai province, but a lightening storm in 1434 damaged that Chedi exposing a stucco likeness of the Buddha. Upon closer inspection the stucco was falling off exposing the Jadeite Buddha below. Being such a beautiful dark green it was confused as being made of emerald at first, giving the statue it’s name The Emerald Buddha.

The King of Chiang Mai at the time heard of this wonderful discovery and decided that the statue must reside within his province. Three times he sent an elephant to Chiang Rai to retrieve the Buddha and three times the elephant stopped at a crossroads while returning with the Buddha. This was seen as a sign from Buddha himself and a temple was constructed in Lampang where the Emerald Buddha stayed for 32 years.

The next king of Chiang Mai decided the Emerald Buddha should be housed in his province as well and this time the Emerald Buddha was successfully moved from Lampang to Chiang Mai where it resided in a temple until 1552 when invaders from Laos stole the emerald Buddha. The statue remained in Laos for the next 214 years until General Chakri, who would later become King Rama I, brought the statue back to the capital at Thonburi after a successful war with Laos.

In 1784 When King Rama I moved the capital across the river to Bangkok he had the ordinance hall built where the stature still resides to this day. The ordinance hall was a plain stucco structure when it was first constructed but King Rama III would change all of that.

Large stucco moldings were installed and the whole hall was gilded and adorned with glass mosaics. A pair of Khmer lions, believed to be from the Khmer Bayon period of the 13th century, guard each of the six entrances. At the base of the ordination hall is a row of golden Garuda’s each holding a Naga in each hand. The Garuda is the King of all birds and the mount of Vishnu the great Hindu god, the Naga is the king of all serpents and the enemy of Garuda. The Garuda holding the Naga is believed to be a very powerful image to chase away evil spirits.

The ordination hall also contains two other interesting Buddha statues. Both ten foot tall statues are cast in bronze and stand crowned at either side of the Emerald Buddha. These statues were commissioned by King Rama III in dedication to King Rama I and King Rama II.

The Temple of the Emerald Buddha is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Thailand, and rightly so. The attention to detail inside as well as outside the ordination hall is stunning. The compound surrounding the ordination hall is equally as stunning with the various monuments and buildings glinting in the midday sun.

Getting a picture of the famous Emerald Buddha is sometimes easier said than done though. No pictures are allowed inside the ordinance hall which leaves you only two vantage points to get your photo. The first is through the open doorway at the front of the hall and the second is through a small open window cut into the front wall of the hall.

Wat Phra Kaew is absolutely a must see while in Bangkok and it is sure to give you memories that will last a lifetime.

An Unexpected Thai Treat

Talen — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 03:02:27 +0000

While working on the family farm in Nakhon Phanom this past April I put in more than my fair share of sweat equity getting the fields ready for the upcoming rice season. Most of the family fields are located just behind the house so we didn’t have far to go with our tractor loads of dung we had mucked from the stables.

One thing kept bothering me though, a tree right in the middle of the family fields. You don’t see many large trees still standing in the rice fields but now and again you’ll see one lone tree defying the odds. At first I thought I had it all figured out, with the sun as strong as it was and me sweating my ass off and looking for any patch of shade I could find that could be the only answer. Then I realized that couldn’t be the answer. There were small huts and thatch roofed decks spotted around the fields for just that purpose.

My last day on the farm was all about relaxing and hanging out with the family and I spent a good part of that day sitting under that tree enjoying it’s shade. Pookie and her Aunt joined me, although they didn’t seem to understand the relaxing part because they were digging in the dirt around the tree. Next think I know they are pulling up what could only be described as hard black balls and throwing them into a straw hat. I swear to Buddha I thought they were collecting some sort of dung.

Before I knew it I was digging around in the dirt and finding similar hard black balls and wondering just what the hell I was up to. Before long we had a hat full and were heading back to the house to relax in the shade there and eye up our curious find. Pookie disappeared into the house only to appear a few minutes later with a very wicked looking knife and a very determined look on he face.

After I realized she wasn’t coming for me but the hard black balls I settled down and watched as she started to split them in half with her wicked knife and feed me the treasure buried inside. As soon as I saw the first ball split open all my questions were answered. They were almonds and that big ass tree was an almond tree. I had missed the blooming of the tree earlier in the year and the harvest of it’s nuts. The nuts fall off the tree at will sometimes and bury themselves in the dirt. So now and again a treat can be had on a hot spring day.

I had never seen an almond in it’s shell before and the only almond trees I have ever seen were very small and ornate looking. The nut grows as the tree blooms and looks very similar to a small green peach. When the peach like shell hardens and turns a deep brown or black the almonds are ready to harvest.

I have to say relaxing under the tree was nice but relaxing under the house while being hand fed the fruits of that tree was priceless. And some of us relaxed more than others.

The Beauty of The Mekong

Talen — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:09:35 +0000

It’s been a picture kind of week here at Land of Smiles so why not wrap up the week with just a few more of my favorites.

The Mekong is a beautiful river and everything that surrounds it adds to it’’s beauty. It’s hard not to notice how important the river is to Thailand as well as Laos in terms of economics and community.

It is however very easy to forget about those things and get lost in the beauty of it all. This is the one place in the world I could live for the rest of my life and one day I will.

Tien Market in Bangkok

Talen — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:34:21 +0000

The other day I wrote about Bangkok’s famous flower market, Pat Klong Talat and I referenced Tien market which is close by. So, I thought I would share this little cultural icon today.

Tien market isn’t much more than a small neighborhood market, situated in a very fortuitous place. If you take the river taxi up the Chao Phraya river to stop #8, which is the Tien pier, then you can’t help strolling through this little market on your way to Wat Pho ( Temple of the Reclining Buddha ). This is also the pier you will use to take the ferry across the Chao Phraya river to Wat Arun.

Although small, this neighborhood market has a lot of old world character and charm. As you come off the river taxi you’ll first be greeted by a restaurant that looks a little run down but I can guarantee you that they have very good food and more than a few cats around. I can confidently rate this as a 3 cat restaurant, which is very good as the Land of Smiles restaurant guide only goes up to 5 cats.

As you pass through the the restaurant there are a few trinket shops on either side before you come off the pier into the main market area. Although you can find some trinket and food shops the majority of merchants here are fish mongers, and mongers of the dried variety at that. To say that the air is pungent with fish might be an understatement.

While the majority of tourists passing through this small market may never realize it’s name they will remember the sights, sounds and smells Tien market brings back to them as they look through pictures they are sure to take.

I wouldn’t say Tien market is a Bangkok must see but seeing that those taking the Chao Phraya river to see attractions such as Wat Pho or Wat Arun will be passing through it, the market has assured it is a must see whether you like it or not.

Wat Shots

Talen — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 01:08:50 +0000

Bangkok’s Hidden Treasure, Pak Klong Talat

Talen — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 01:35:45 +0000

Pat Klong Talat is best known as Bangkok’s 24 hour wholesale flower market that resides just off the Chayo Phraya river, it’s name literally means market by the mouth of the canal. It’s not so much that it’s hidden but a lot of tourists tend to forgo it’s beauty for other attractions around Bangkok.

If you take the Chao Phraya river taxi up river to the Memorial Bridge pier (stop #6) you can pretty much smell your way to Chak Phet road and Bangkok’s largest wholesale produce and flower market. At one time, over a hundred years ago, this area was the site of a floating market. During the reign of King Rama V it was changed into a fish market which stood for 60 years and eventually gave way to the produce and flower market it is today. The fish market is said to have been closed due to pollution problems and bad smells. One only needs to hang out for a bit at the Tien Market, only a short walk away, to get an inkling of how the fish market may have smelled, all sorts of dried fish can be found here.

You won’t have to worry about fishy smells here anymore though as that has all been replaced by the sweet smell of roses, jasmine, carnations, orchids and many other species of flowers delivered from all over Thailand to the market daily. While this is definitely a wholesale market and is very busy late at night and in the early morning, the market is also open to the public.

Westerners are likely to be shocked by the prices of the wholesale flowers. A dozen roses in America retail for $30 on a normal day while valentines day sees that price jump to $100. One newspaper wrapped bundle of 50 roses here will set you back 40-50 baht, just a little more than than $1.00. Or if you like you can have an orchid for 20 baht. The sellers may not make much money off the tourist trade but you can bet they have a smile on their face working under such beautifully fragrant conditions.

I meant to spend an evening here last trip watching the hustle and bustle of the market but plans always have a way of changing in Thailand. I did get a chance to spend a little time at the market the day before I left for Pattaya and I’m very happy I did, although I didn’t get nearly as many pictures as I wanted.

Pak Klong Talat market is truly a feast for the eyes as well as your nose and with all the succulent produce and the beautiful tapestry of vivid colors provided by the flowers of Thailand you can get lost here for some time and be very happy about it. This belongs on your list of sights to see while in Bangkok so make sure you add it because it will definitely make for a memorable day and many beautiful pictures.

Beautiful Thai Women

Talen — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 00:23:20 +0000

It’s been a little too serious around here lately so it’s time to lighten it up a bit. Thailand is indeed a beautiful country and Thailand’s women are amongst the most beautiful women in the world. Sexy, exotic and they have the most amazing smiles. It’s easy to get lost in all the beauty Thailand has to offer.

More Pictures can be found in the Thai Girls Gallery.

On the Road Again, Thai Style

Talen — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 04:10:08 +0000

Martyn over at Beyond the Mango Juice had a great post the other day, Off Road in Thailand, that really struck a note with me. Rural Thailand is really an amazing place if you’re in the right frame of mind and getting lost on the back roads of rural Thailand can be an almost zen like experience.

My last trip I helped out with the family rice fields and I learned a lot about what the rural Thai families do to sustain themselves. Most of the family fields are just behind their house but they own a few fields about 4 miles away so that meant taking to the open road on the trusty tractor. I had my camera with me so I decided to take some ” on the road” pictures as we finished hauling our last few loads of manure.

I never really thought about posting these pictures until Martyn’s post reminded me just how much I missed being in Nakhon Phanom and how beautiful the back roads can be. So, Martyn these photo’s are dedicated to you. I call this gallery ” Rural Thailand as viewed from a tractor by a falang”

Bangkok’s Ancient Skyline

Talen — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 20:21:53 +0000

There is something absolutely amazing about ancient Thai architecture set against a spectacular Bangkok skyline. If you stand just the right way or get the right angle on your camera you can erase a few hundred years of technology and progress from your photos and make it feel like you are seeing Thailand as it was 300 years ago. It must have truly been a sight to behold.

Wat Suthat in Bangkok

Talen — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 08:42:56 +0000

As I said in an earlier post on Bangkok’s Giant Swing I had very little time in Bangkok last trip and many things to see. My first trip to Wat Suthat was cut short due to torrential downpours but I eventually found some time a few days later to revisit the Wat. Little did I know at the time the rich history of this particular Buddhist temple I just knew it was beautiful and I really wanted to see it. Unfortunately the weather and my camera’s memory card didn’t hold up well this day so a return trip is in order.

Wat Suthat is over 200 years old and considered to be one the most important Buddhist temples in Thailand. The building of Wat Suthat began in the early 19th century under King Rama I and took over 30 years to complete. It is home to many beautiful Thai/Chinese bronze sculptures including one Buddha statue from the SukhoThai period that dates to over 600 years old and is 25 meters tall. This statue was floated down river over 200 years ago to become part of the temple. Wat Suthat is also home to the ashes of King Anand Mahidol who was the brother of Thailand’s current King.

There has been ongoing restoration of the temple in past years including a joint Thai/German project to restore the wall murals and in 1999 the temple commissioned a western Mahayana Buddhist painter, Brian Barry, to design and paint the platform door paintings in the preaching hall. A first as no other time has a non Thai person been allowed to do work on a royal Thai temple.

One of the largest draws to Wat Suthst is it’s connection to Mahayana Buddhism and the Phra Kring, a Buddhist amulet that looks like a Mahayana Buddha and makes a ringing sound when shaken. The Thai people believe that this particular amulet has the power to affect ones health. These amulets can be bought at the temple and are very prized possessions by those who purchase them.

Wat Suthat is a working temple and you will see many monks as you stroll through the compound. If you have the chance to see Wat Suthat later in the day, around 6 pm, then you will be witness to a large gathering of monks coming to the preaching hall for their daily chants.

Wat Suthat is steeped in rich history and Buddhist lore and is easily one of the most beautiful temples in Thailand. If you are heading for Bangkok then this is indeed one place that should be on your list to visit. I know I’ll be making a return visit.

More pictures can be seen of Wat Suthat and the Giant swing in the Gallery Wat Suthat.

The below video is a short look at Wat Suthat.

The Naga of Thailand

Talen — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 23:56:52 +0000

One of the more beautiful elements of Thai temples and spiritual places is that of the Naga. Naga is a Sanskrit and Pali word for a diety that takes the form of the great snake, often a king cobra.

Ancient stories tell of the Naga’s birth as the cousin of the great Garuda. A very powerful sage named Kasyapa had two wives that both wanted children. Kadru, his first wife, wanted many children while his second wife Vinata only wanted a few children but she wanted them to be powerful. As legend has it they both were granted their wish. Kadru laid 1000 eggs that later hatched into snakes while Vinata had but two children, the sun god Surya and a large bird like creature named Garuda.

After a foolish bet made by Vinata with her sister was lost she became the slave of Kadru as did her son Garuda. Garuda was required to do the bidding of the snakes until one day when he asked what it would take to release him from this bond. The snakes required Garuda to bring them the elixir of life called Amrita which was guarded by the gods. Garuda stole the elixir and brought it to the snakes as required but prevented them from drinking it and becoming immortal. Released from his bonds Garuda forever regarded the snakes as enemies.

In Buddhist lore Naga can have one head or many heads and some have magical powers that can help them take the shape of humans. Some Buddhist artwork portrays this shape changed Naga as a seated man with a snake or dragon extended over his head. The Naga can live anywhere on earth but the Thai and Lao versions of the Naga generally live near or in water.

In the Northeast of Thailand the Mekong is held as a very sacred Naga sanctuary with many Thai’s and Lao’s still believing the Naga rule and live in the waters. Indeed, there are still annual sacrificial ceremonies held in both Thailand and Laos to pay respect to the Naga because they believe the Naga protect them from danger on the water as well as the believe that the Naga bring prosperity to fishermen.

The mystery deepens every year on the 15th day of the 11th month of the Thai and lao lunar calendars. On this day between the Nong Khai and Pak-Ngeum provinces of Thailand red fireballs the size of eggs shoot out of the Mekong and high into the sky for all to see. It’s widely believed both in Thailand and Laos that the Naga under the river shoot the fireballs into the air to celebrate the end of Vassa or Buddhist lent.

Both local Thai’s and Laos claim this is a natural phenomenon and a reminder to them by the Naga to treat the waters with much respect. Although many claim it to be a hoax there has never been definitive proof to the contrary. Well, nobody has spoiled the fun as far as I know…there are theories that the Lao’s know a bit more about the fireballs than they are letting on

Festivals are held in Pak-Ngeum and Phonephisai districts in Nong Khai province as well as every district and province in between during the second week of October, usually between the 10th and the 16th. Likewise the Lao counterparts on the other side of the Mekong hold festivities at the same time.

Even if you don’t believe in the mythology or history of the Naga you can still appreciate the beauty they bring to Thailand.

Wat Pho, Temple of the Reclining Buddha

Talen — Tue, 18 Aug 2009 02:10:49 +0000

While I was in Bangkok in April I wanted to visit as many important landmarks as I could in the short time I had. At the top of the list was WatPho, better know to the Thai’s as Wat Phra Chetuphon. Everyone else will know it as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha.

Wat Pho is the largest and the oldest temple in Bangkok, sitting on 20 acres and predating Bangkok being named as the capital city of Thailand by 200 years. The temple not only holds the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand it also boasts the most Buddha images of any Wat in Thailand, having over 1000.

As a tourist attraction it is among the most impressive in the world. The gold plated statue of the reclining Buddha represents the passing of Buddha into Nirvana and measures in at an amazing 15 meters tall and 46 meters long. Aside from the gold plating the Eyes of the Buddha and the bottom of the feet are made of mother of pearl. The soles of the feet are inlaid with intricate designs showcasing the 108 characteristics of the true Buddha.

While the main Wat complex is made up of two walled compounds, the North compound is where you will find the temple of the reclining Buddha while the Southern compound is still a working monastery. You’ll know exactly where the North compound is when you see throngs of people gathering at the entrance. The entrance fee for western visitors is 350 baht while Thai’s are alowed in for free. Before entering the temple you will remove your shoes and store them in special shoe boxes outside the temple.

Once inside the temple you basically follow the flow leading down the front side of the Buddha and then back towards the exit from the rear of the Buddha. There is no time limit so you can wait out the crowds to get the best photos. While waiting for the best shot you can take in the beauty of the wall murals finished in gold leaf.

Once you round the feet of the reclining Buddha and move towards the rear of the statue you will see a line of brass pots against the wall leading to the exit. A small desk behind the feet is where you will get a handful of prayer coins for a 20 baht note and as you exit you place one coin in each brass pot for blessings to be bestowed upon you. This really adds to the ambiance of the temple.

This is really the one attraction not to miss when visiting Bangkok. The temple grounds are very beautiful and the statue of the reclining Buddha is amazing in all it’s splendor. More photos can bee seen in the gallery Wat Pho-Temple of the Reclining Buddha.

Thailand Land of Smiles» Thailand Pictures

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